Paul's sprinter

Not so long ago I visited Paul, a Norton enthousiast if ever you've seen one. Paul owns a very nice vintage Norton sprinter. He has had it for a while but no one has been able to tell what it is exactly; which provided a challenge for Simon and what following are Simon's ideas about the bike after spending hours going through the Norton works records:

"The frame is almost certainly from a 1930 M18 or M19. Regretfully, the exact number has not yet been found in the works records but assuming the framenumber was not invented by a previous owner it must be from 1930 as the adjacent numbers are from well into 1930. It is not a speedway frame, as these are very different. The '588' stamped above the framenumber indicates that a longer downtube was used to enable fitting of the taller M19 engine, when required. 

The bottom half of the engine is standard ES2 and was despatched from the works in June 1928. These engines used the same dry sump systems as the CS1 of that period, and were fitted with steel flywheels, with a 22mm timing side mainshaft and a 1" drive side mainshaft. Cams were of different design to those used in the M18s etc., in 1929, and apart from having a higher lift, are of the same design as those used in the 1930 engines with enclosed pushrods and cast alloy rocker box.

Moving on to the top half, the barrel started life on a Model 20, from January 1930. The head is very late 1930 or 1931, and can be recognized because the inlet port is angled to the right. Through-bolts are fitted to hold barrel and head to cranckcase. A useful modification but one which cannot be done with the older M18 engines as the head studs and barrel base nuts on these models don't line up. However, on the 1930 M20 and 1931 engines, the stud pitch is the same on head and barrel and the through-bolt modification is possible. The rocker box is a 1930/1931 M20 item although considerably cut down.

The carb as fitted is a type 27 Amal and probably started life fitted to a speedway JAP engine. The gearbox looks like a type III or IV Sturmey Archer, both of which were put on the market in 1930"

Well, in addition I can say the bike has a BTH KD1 magneto, a 'floating' arrangement for the primary drive and it has a seriously high compression.

And it sounds great and goes very well; Paul reckons this one of the fastest vintage Nortons he has ever ridden; click this link to see the YouTube movie!

The question that remains is off course is: Who built it? It looks very similar to a bike built by the legendary Pat Driscoll; however (quoting simon again):

"Driscoll never used this type of frame. He certainly fitted ES2 engines to some of his bikes so his efforts may have been the inspiration for this bike. Driscoll used special flat tank frames with rear set footrests and in some cases longer rear stays."

Memphis Shades Phenomenal Customer Service

Memphis Shades Phenomenal Customer Service

Mediocre service is easy to find these days and poor service is all too common. I work in the customer service industry and I know. I am very aware of customer service and I recognize good service when I see it and I don’t mind bragging about or tipping well, when I receive it. This is a story about phenomenal customer service.

So, there I was in the fast lane, heading home at warp 8 a month or so ago, when I notice my Memphis Shades windshield is vibrating a lot. Well, it was windier out than the campfire scene in Blazing Saddles anyway. Then I noticed the left side of the windshield appears to be flapping more than the right side. Now I’m starting to get concerned and wondering if something is wrong.

I get to my exit and stop for the light. Yes, I actually do stop on occasion. I reached up with my clutch hand, the one on my left for you non motorcyclists, and grabbed the left side of the Memphis Shades windshield and pushed and pulled on it. The whole left side was loose. I decided I would investigate further when I got home, hoping it had just come loose.

I rode into the driveway, dismounted, and inspected the windshield and how it mounted to the bike. As it turns out, the left side upper hardware that mounts the windshield to the bracket on the bike is completely missing. I torqued the remaining hardware noting ironically the use of ASE Hex head screws on my metric bike. So, I headed inside to see if I could locate some replacement hardware online.

I went straight for the Memphis Shades website. I looked up the model I had and found the hardware kit including a picture. Next, I fired off an email to Customer Service explaining my predicament. I told them of the fact that I bought the bike used with the windshield already on the bike. I informed them I was willing to purchase the missing hardware if they could direct me in the right direction. I included all the part numbers and the diagram from their website. After all, it was negligence on my part that caused it to be missing any way. Now I waited for a response.

The next day I had my email answer from Mary in Customer Service, who stated simply, “ok i will get these out.” Three days later a package arrived in the mail from Memphis Shades. I opened it and to my surprise there was two of everything I needed to repair my windshield. I also did not find any billing information, even for the shipping. I went immediately to the garage and installed the missing spacer, nut and bolt. Everything worked flawlessly and Mistress was complete once again with her Memphis Shades windshield nice and tight.

I went back inside and fired off another email to Mary at Memphis Shades Customer Service letting her know I had received the package and asked how much money I owed them. She replied back the next day to the email, “Hi Torch, you dont owe me anything. Thanks, Mary.” I was shocked, literally. Memphis Shades had just knocked my socks off with jaw dropping, eyebrow raising customer service. I was indeed wowed. It is rare that you come across that kind of customer service anywhere, anyplace, any time.

This post is to say thanks to Mary in Customer Service and to Memphis Shades for making such a fine product and going over and above in standing behind their product and in helping someone out even when they did not have too because it definitely was not a product issue.

Ride on,
Torch

Assembling the Sturmey Archer gearbox

Your flat tank Norton will be fitted with a Sturmey Archer three speed gearbox similar to the one in the pics. Dismantling and reassembly is fairly straightforward. Mine had to be dismantled because of 'funny noises' that could be traced to a broken bush that is meant to dislodge the kickstarter ratchet. While I was at it I found that a few bearings needed replacement. Most notably, the sleeve gear mainshaft bearing that consists of 'two cups and a double cone' was worn out.

Reassembly starts with fitting the new sleeve gear mainshaft bearing; thoroughly heat the gearbox casing and insert the 'double cone'. Then stick the balls (20 for each cup) in each cup using a lot of grease. Some juggling will result in fitting the whole set including the sleeve gear in the gearbox casing. (My bearing was brand new and a modern replica that does not need adjustment; traditionally these bearings would contain shims between the cups to get the adjustment right and the recommended way to compensate for wear was to remove a shim. Often discarded, some boxes may still contain a thin pressed steel cover which pushes on to the outer end of the bearing and is secured by centre punching it into the three dimples in the outside of the bearing)

Then fit the chainwheel, first fitting a felt washer saturated with heavy oil, to keep the dirt out and the oil in. Fit the large nut and pull really tight; don't be tempted to slacken this nut in order to be able to fit the retaining plate on the outside of the chainwheel; this nut also retains the correct play on the sleeve gear mainshaft bearing and a loose nut will wreck the bearing!

Then temporarily fit the layshaft into the box. Your box may contain a spring washer to limit end float of this shaft. Otherwise fit shims or a spacer to limit layshaft end float. The shaft should have about 0.1 mm play once the endcover is fitted. The spring washer or the shims should be next to the bearing in the endcover.

Remove the layshaft again. Fit the bronze thrust washer that needs to be 7/32" thick or close to it and temporarily fit the mainshaft and endcover. Float is adjusted by placing shims between the clutchworm and the bearing; pushing the bearing 'in' results in less float; about 0.1 mm float is required.

Remove the mainshaft, fit all the gearwheels to the shafts and simply insert the lot in the box, making sure the gear plate bosses engage with the shift fork ends. Fit the endcover and the small cover nuts that should have washers underneath to prevent the hexagon heads chewing the cover.

My box had a crack in the alloy boss that supports the kickstart. I solved this by making a steel bush that fits tightly over the boss. Make sure it's very thin otherwise it will break the kickstart return spring.

Song of the Rolling Sirens

Song of the Rolling Sirens

It was a dark spring morning and a blanket of ominous clouds hovered low in the sky making the air thick with humidity. I started the V-Star and her 1063 cc’s of v-twin power roared to life as I hit the garage door opener button to close the garage. It was 6:00 am and I was hoping my neighbors did not hate me and my Cobra exhaust as I turned out of the driveway and started on my commute to work.

Passing the local Waffle house on my way to the freeway the odors of waffles, eggs, sausage, and bacon, beckoned me to stop and eat. I sighed at what was not to be as I approached the light downshifting twice to turn onto the access road to get on the on-ramp to the two lane freeway. Three quarters of the way up the on-ramp my left turn signal was on as I shifted into third. I have decided that this was the most fun part of any ride, the acceleration to get up to speed, after all, there are no laws that limit how fast you can get up to the speed limit.

In no time I’m at the end of this stretch of highway as it makes a graceful right hand turn and merges with another section this time three lanes wide. Tending to run faster than the other traffic I again apply my left turn signal and change lanes twice double checking the lane next to me each time before changing lanes. In the fast lane I pulled in right behind another motorcyclist traveling slightly faster than me possibly on a Harley-Davidson by the sound of the engine.

I sped up a little to keep up with the other motorcyclist. Traffic is usually not too bad this time of the morning as long as you do not get stuck behind a row of vehicles all traveling the same speed so that you cannot get by in the fast lane. Some people will just not change lanes even though slower traffic is supposed keep right. Just about then is when I started to hear the Song.

An eighteen wheeler was in the middle lane and I was passing on the left tracking in the left hand side of my lane. As I drew closer the sound of their Song got louder. I glanced at all those wheels, each one almost half as tall as me. These Sirens are calling to me, luring me to look at them. I try to look away. Mistress, my bike, says, “Watch where we are going.” We were approaching a left hand curve on the highway.

I move lane position to the right side of my lane in preparation of the curve doing the outside, inside, outside track thing like I don’t really know how tight the curve is. This places me right next to the leviathans’ rear trailer wheels. I glance over and the Sirens Song is sweeter, louder, calling me closer as I strain to look away. “Look away, don’t stare at the beast,” I say to myself, probably out loud.

I’m slightly behind the rigs two sets of double tires now and nearing the apex of the curve. The muscles in my legs and arms tighten up and get stiff as the sirens voices start screaming louder at me as I fight to avert my eyes and turn my bike away from our deadly track. All I need to do is pull back slightly on the right handlebar and Mistress will respond leaning left and turning left out of that outer track but I find myself fighting the Sirens hypnotic Song. The Sirens Song is a screaming crescendo now pulling at Mistress and trying to make us crash against the mighty Leviathan.

My pulse has quickened and my breathing has almost stopped as I try to force her to turn left fighting against the handle bars that feel like hard taffy. She does not respond to manhandling and awaits the gentle counter steer command. The bike is at the apex of the curve now and we are sliding slowly closer into the mouth of the deadly Leviathan.

We are being drawn in, pulled by the voices of the alluring Sirens. Then, Mistress’s soothingly soft sultry voice cut through the panic brought about by the Song of the Sirens telling me, “Look away from the beast and look to where you want to go.” This was said not as an order, but in a matter of fact, common sense kind of way.

Nodding in agreement I hear her and obeyed, ignoring the Sirens command I forced my eyes to look away and into the far left track of the lane I’m traveling in. I relax my arms and gently push the left handle bar forward while pulling slightly back on the right. Mistress responds with a purr and immediately leaned left and headed into the left track out of the deadly path of the stampeding Leviathan. I blocked out the compelling Song of the Sirens and speed by the eighteen wheeled monster right as the corner ends.

Breathing once again my pulse starts to slow as I take the exit to get to work. Once at work and calmed down, I had time to reflect on what had just transpired on my normal boring commute. Call it what you want, Target Fixation or the Song of the Siren, your bike will go, maybe subconsciously, where you look. Is Target Fixation just an excuse, a Myth, or an Urban Legend? Having first hand battled it and won, I think not. So, glance at obstacles just long enough to recognize them for what they are and then look back where you want to go. If you don’t, you may succumb to the call of the Sirens, and smash into the very obstacle you are staring at, and trying desperately to avoid.

Ride on,
Torch

A Triumph 5S 500 cc 1939

Grote 8-inch Lucas koplamp

Op 5 april 2005 gaat Hans met zijn 5S voor de keuring.

Paneltank

Triumph logo, oliedrukmeter, motornummer

http://www.cybermotorcycle.com/

Designer: Edward Turner

A Triumph 5S (single)500 cc 1939

This sidevalve machine is one of the last traditional Triumph type

which dated back to the earliest days of the century.

Edward Turner brought them (3S,5S,6S) up to date in the same way

as he had which the ohv models.

They had the Turner tank, frames, forks,wheels and brakes.

(Bron: Triumph Motorcycles Ivor Davies)

Een fraaie motorfiets in "black trim"...

"Zeer Fraai"

en met ivoorwitte biesjes.

een korte videoclip...

Ik ben binnen...

en bij goed weer lig ik buiten!

- Don't ride faster than Your Gardian Angel can Fly!

- The Twin Man -

Motoring George Spauwen

Sponsored by
Victrace Sitebuilding

May 2009 Proclaimed Motorcycle Safety Awareness Month

2009 MOTORCYCLE SAFETY AWARENESS MONTH NEWS RELEASE

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE: 5/20/2009
CONTACT: Torch

Midlife Motorcycle Madness Promotes “Sharing the Road” with Motorcycles by Joining Efforts with State and Federal Partners

May 2009 Proclaimed Motorcycle Safety Awareness Month.

Bedford, Texas – Motorcyclists fatalities have steadily increased over the past decade. In fact, in 2007, there was a seven percent increase in fatalities from 4,837 in 2006, to 5,154.

That’s why Midlife Motorcycle Madness announced today that they are joining with other federal, State and local highway safety, law enforcement, and motorcycle organizations in proclaiming May 2009 as “Motorcycle Safety Awareness Month.” All motorists are reminded to safely “Share the Road” with motorcycles and to be extra alert when driving to help keep motorcyclists safe. Motorcyclists are reminded to make themselves visible to other motorists in case other drivers are not looking out for motorcycle riders.

“As the weather improves, more and more motorcyclists are hitting the roads. And with that in mind, drivers of all vehicles, whether you’re driving an SUV, passenger car or truck, need to be extra attentive and make sure you “Share the Road,”’ said Torch. “Motorcycles are some of the smallest vehicles on our roads, often hidden in a vehicle’s blind spot so everyone needs to really look out for them.”

It’s crucial that motorists always make a visual check for motorcycles by checking mirrors and blind spots before entering or leaving a lane of traffic and at intersections.

“Motorcyclists have responsibilities, too,” said Torch. “They should follow the rules of the roadway, be alert to other drivers, and always wear a DOT-compliant helmet and other protective gear.”

Torch said that motorcyclists are much more vulnerable than passenger vehicle occupants in the event of a crash. He said that research shows that per vehicle mile traveled, motorcyclists are about 37 times more likely than a passenger car occupant to die in a traffic crash.

Torch offered several tips for drivers to help keep motorcyclists safe on our roadways:

* Remember the motorcycle is a vehicle with all of the rights and privileges of any other motor vehicle on the roadway. Always allow a motorcyclist the full lane width—never try to share a lane;

* Always make a visual check for motorcycles by checking mirrors and blind spots before entering or leaving a lane of traffic and at intersections;

* Always signal your intentions before changing lanes or merging with traffic;

* Don’t be fooled by a flashing turn signal on a mo­torcycle – motorcycle signals are often not self-canceling and riders sometimes forget to turn them off. Wait to be sure the motorcycle is going to turn before you proceed;

* Allow more following distance, three or four sec­onds, when behind a motorcycle, so the motorcyclist has enough time to maneuver or stop in an emer­gency. And don’t tailgate. In dry conditions, motorcycles can stop more quickly than cars.

Torch said motorcyclists can increase their safety by:

* Avoid riding in poor weather conditions.

* Wearing brightly colored protective gear and a DOT-compliant helmet;

* Using turn signals for every turn or lane change, even if the rider thinks no one will see it;

* Combining hand and turn signals to draw more attention to themselves;

* Using reflective tape and stickers to increase conspicuity; and

* Positioning themselves in the lane where they will be most visible to other drivers.

Our message to all drivers and motorcyclists is: make this the first year in recent years when motorcycle fatalities do not increase. Help to share in the responsibility and do your part by safely “Sharing the Road.”

Ride on,

Torch

Enfield hub bearings

Your late vintage Norton will be fitted with Enfield hubs. At the rear there will be a bolt-on brake drum and a vane type cush drive for the rear sprocket. Enfield front hubs, with rather ineffective braking ability, were also fitted. Typically, these hubs contain "bicycle type" cup and cone bearings (see the two pics on top). Correctly adjusted and well lubricated they will last a very long time but as few people bother to lubricate their wheel bearings you will most likely find them worn beyond further use.

The first option is to try and locate a new set of cups and cones though this may not be easy as no one I know of stocks them. A faster way out may be to fit more modern alternatives.

Enfield hubs employed by some other manufacturers in the late twenties and thirties were fitted with two unsealed single row ball races MJ5/8 (R and M designation). Alternative designations for the same bearing are MS7 (Hoffman) or RMS5 (Skefco). The outside diameter of their races is 1.8125” (1 13/16” or 46.038 mm). These bearings are still available and may be obtained from your local supplier.

With use of modern bearing adhesives you can fit a pair of these MJ5/8 bearings to your Norton's hubs, after first turning up a suitable spindle and spacer. The hub as used by Norton in most cases is of a larger outside diameter than the MJ5/8 at 1.815” to 1.818” (46.101 to 46.177 mm) and therefore a drop of Loctite is required to fit them properly. Alternatively, sealed metric bearings of type 6204 can be used of which the 47mm outside diameter is ground down to 46.101 to 46.177 mm.

During the thirties another solution was available in that both Timken and SKF produced taper roller bearings of which the outside diameter of the outer race was also 1 13/16” and the inner race was conveniently threaded 9/16” x 20 TPI, the same as that of the regular wheel spindles used by Norton. These taper roller races can be used as direct replacements for the original cups and cones. That is, if you can find them and if you are willing to pay, as they will be expensive. Incidentially, the rear wheel of my M18 is fitted with a Japanese version of the same bearings (bottom pics), the reference can be seen in lower pic. The reference numbers of the older taper rollers appear to have been:
Outer, 1.8125” x 0.565” 1129X (Timken) or 2K-1129X (SKF). Inner, threaded 9/16” x 20, with flats for adjustment: F1175XL (Timken) or 1201799 (SKF). Inner, threaded 9/16” x 20, for fixed position on spindle: F1174XL (Timken).

(All info provided by Simon; thanks!)